The Unsettling Shine: How US Tariffs Are Hitting India's Diamond Polishers

India's diamond polishing industry, a powerhouse that processes an astonishing 95% of the world's diamonds, is facing one of its toughest challenges in recent memory. A new tariff hike by the United States, a key market for Indian diamonds, is poised to cut the industry's revenue by a significant 28-30% this fiscal year. This financial blow, predicted by the credit rating agency CRISIL, threatens to take the sector's earnings to their lowest point since 2007.

Photo Credit: VIjay Soneji

The ripple effects of this tariff are far-reaching, impacting not just the large players but also the thousands of small and medium-sized businesses that form the backbone of this industry in cities like Surat. Understanding this complex situation requires looking at the reasons behind the tariffs, the immediate impact on businesses, and the long-term changes the industry must embrace to survive.

Understanding the Tariff Hike

The recent turmoil began with the US imposing a new set of tariffs on a range of Indian goods. For the diamond polishing industry, this meant an additional 25% penalty on top of an existing 25% reciprocal tariff, bringing the total levy to a staggering 50%. This is not a small number. It means that for every $100 worth of polished diamonds Indian exporters send to the US, an additional $50 must now be paid in taxes. This dramatic increase makes it incredibly difficult for Indian exporters to compete.

The timing of this tariff couldn't be worse. The Indian diamond industry was already struggling with a 40% decline in revenue over the past three years. This was due to a mix of factors, including falling prices and a dip in sales volume. The new 50% tariff is the latest, and perhaps the most severe, blow to a sector already on a shaky foundation.

The Direct Impact on Revenue and Profit

CRISIL's analysis of 43 diamond polishing companies paints a grim picture. They predict that the industry's revenue will fall from around $16 billion last fiscal year to a projected $12.50 billion this fiscal year. This decline is not just a statistical blip; it represents a massive loss of income for businesses and a threat to livelihoods.

Why is the impact so severe? There are two main reasons. First, the diamond polishing industry operates on very thin profit margins. This means that a 50% tariff is not something they can simply absorb. It eats directly into their already slim profits. The increased costs can lead to a drop in operating margins by 50-100 basis points, putting immense pressure on companies' financial health.

Second, passing on this extra cost to consumers in the US is not a viable option. Demand for natural diamonds in the US and China has already been weak. American retailers, who are facing their own economic pressures, are highly unlikely to agree to pay more for diamonds. This leaves Indian exporters in a difficult position: either they sell at a loss or they lose their business to competitors.

The financial strain is also evident in the credit profiles of these companies. While many have relied on minimal external debt, the combination of declining sales and shrinking profitability is putting their financial stability to the test. The interest coverage ratio, a key measure of a company's ability to pay interest on its outstanding debt, is expected to fall. This makes it harder for companies to borrow money and invest in their future, creating a vicious cycle of decline.

Challenges Beyond Tariffs: The Rise of Lab-Grown Diamonds

While the tariffs are the immediate cause of the crisis, the Indian diamond industry faces a larger, more persistent threat: the rise of lab-grown diamonds. These diamonds, created in a controlled environment, are chemically and physically identical to natural ones but are significantly cheaper.

According to CRISIL, lab-grown diamonds have already captured about 60% of the US market share by volume. This shift in consumer preference, combined with a dip in demand for natural diamonds, creates a difficult market for Indian exporters. The competition from lab-grown diamonds is a long-term trend, and it's something the industry must address head-on, regardless of tariff issues.

The issue of demand is further complicated by the slowing economy in China, another major market for Indian diamonds. A combination of weak demand in two of the world's largest economies, plus the surging popularity of a cheaper alternative, has created a perfect storm for the industry.

Navigating the Storm: The Way Forward

So, how can India's diamond polishers navigate this challenging period? CRISIL and industry experts suggest a three-pronged approach.

First, the industry needs to focus on boosting domestic sales. While the US and China are crucial export markets, India itself has a growing appetite for diamonds. Shifting focus and strengthening the domestic market could provide a much-needed buffer against international trade headwinds. While consumption in India has been increasing, this growth alone is not enough to completely offset the massive losses from key export markets.

Second, companies must actively push sales in alternative geographies. The United Arab Emirates (UAE), for instance, has already emerged as a dominant hub for Indian exports, with its share doubling to about 20% year-on-year. Exploring and expanding into other markets could help diversify the industry's risk and reduce its heavy reliance on the US.

Finally, some companies may need to consider a more strategic, and drastic, step: setting up polishing facilities in other trading hubs. This could help them bypass the tariffs. However, this is not a simple solution, as most of the diamonds would still need to be polished in India and would therefore still be subject to the higher tariff.

The Broader Economic Implications

The struggles of the diamond polishing industry are a microcosm of the wider economic challenges facing India in the face of changing global trade policies. This situation highlights the importance of creating resilient supply chains and diversifying export markets.

The government also has a crucial role to play. The Commerce Ministry has acknowledged the short-term impact of these tariffs and has said that positive work is underway to address the industry's concerns. They have also emphasized the need to expedite the rollout of the Export Promotion Mission (EPM) to provide support and impetus to the affected sectors.

The situation serves as a wake-up call for the industry and the government. It forces a hard look at the business model and the need to innovate and adapt. While the current outlook is undeniably bleak, the resilience of the Indian diamond polishing sector will be tested. Its ability to pivot to new markets, embrace domestic demand, and navigate the complex geopolitical landscape will determine whether it can regain its sparkle in the years to come.

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